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Shrewd Food

Smart takes on food, coffee & service

Food News

JACKFRUIT, UGLY FRUIT, GREEN FRUIT … HELLO 2019

Heirloom tomatoes, taste amazing, look amazing

From hummus desserts and motherless meat to mainstreaming marijuana and middle-aged waitresses, these are just some of the food and restaurant trends forecast for 2019. Ingrid Shevlin reports 

Just when you resigned yourself to the fact that kale is the new spinach or that some obscure South American vegetable (which is never going to hit our shop shelves, anyway) is the latest superfood, it all changes. Out goes coconut water, in comes cactus water. Out goes perfect fruit, in comes ugly fruit. Margarine is so 2017, so welcome back real butter. Bone broth becomes the latest panacea of all ills and more and more Japanese food is thrilling Western tastebuds. Shrewd Food trawled through publications and websites to find out what’s in store for 2019. So, below, are the trends you should be following this year, failing which you can at least sound intelligent at the dinner table when someone raves on about Nigella seeds – and, no, they have nothing to do with Nigella Lawson.
But there is one prevailing theme thoughout the new trends:  The rise of vegetarianism. This means the demand for tasty plant-based meat substitutes continues to grow (Woolworths has just bought out a range of plant-based meat substitutes) and lab-grown, motherless meat is just around the corner. Say goodbye to the braai and help save our planet.
(Some of the information has been quoted directly from these, largely international, websites and publications and some items have been substantially reworded with added information to give some local context and info).

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Restaurants

FLORIDA ROAD: WALKING THE URBAN LANDSCAPE

A whimsical take on Florida Road. Picture courtesy Urban Lime

Hello Future! Florida Road is being transformed, restored and regenerated. Well, that’s the plan anyway.  Ingrid Shevlin discovers what Urban Lime (and a few others) have in mind for this iconic area, destined to become Durban’s high street. Expect an explosionof restaurants.

Jonny and Katie Friedman are the powerhouses behind Urban Lime. On their website they describe the company as “an innovative commercial property regeneration company that transforms and regenerates urban landscapes that have fallen out of fashion into vibrant communities for people, business and enterprise to thrive.”
And that’s no boast. They own and are rejuvenating more properties in Florida Road than any other developer. An impressive number I discovered after Katie took myself, fellow journalist Frank Chemaly and two young food entrepreneurs looking for restaurant space, for a walk up and down Florida Road. The aim was to not only view their properties, but learn their plans for those still undergoing regeneration and renovation. In other words, loads of changes, but not of the skyscape. Urban Lime is, as they say, all about restoring. Not destroying iconic and historic buildings.
Of course you can’t own that many properties and be that powerful and escape criticism on a range of issues. Like accusations of high rents, or disapproval of their plans for the Florida Road of tomorrow, or suggestions they are favouring chains and franchises over the “little guys”.

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Food News

HAPPY FOOD

Expect only top quality artisanal food, baked goods, organic produce and upmarket shopping at  The Market at Ballito’s Lifestyle Centre, a haven and heaven for foodies. By Ingrid Shevlin

Juices that are organic, cold-pressed and seasonal is Juice Kitchen’s promise.

Communal eating at The Market

Olives galore at The Market

ONE-STOP food markets are hardly new. But here’s one with a difference. A market that focuses on organic products, quality artisanal food and homegrown restaurants. So, no KFC, no Domino pizzas. No McDonalds. No Starbucks. Sure, there’s a place for those chains, just not at The Market, a permanent fixture at the Ballito Lifestyle Centre taking up 1600 m2 of retail space.
This is no flea market with imported tat. Instead it’s a sophisticated food paradise offering home-grown, local and community-based food and produce. And it is, right now, the only indoor artisanal food market trading seven days a week in South Africa.
Impressive.

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Food News

SWEET DELIGHTS

SUGAR AND SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE

Fig and cinnamon pavlova

Pistachio and raspberry roulade

When they say .. if you only buy one book, buy this one.  It’s true in the case of  Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh (Ebury Press). It’s that good. 

I love, love, love this book. I’ve bought tons of baking books over the years, from modest little books compiled to raise money for charities, to James Martin’s fabulous Sweet (totally weird that it has the same title). Martin’s book is so beautiful and so glossy I was content to perv over the exquisite photography rather than actually bake anything.
But Ottolenghi’s Sweet is different. Yes, it’s also beautiful to look at, but not only are the baked treats desirable, delectable-sounding and different, I wanted to make them. And I felt the recipes were within my capabilities. When I want to bake  something delicious, I don’t want to spend hours doing so.

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Restaurants

FISH AND WHINE

Fish & Wine interior shot with the a ship’s hull suspended from the ceiling

King prawns

The Fish & Wine Co
Shop B9, The Pearls
7 McCausland Cres, Umhlanga
Call 031 941 6896

Must go down to the sea again …. or not. A seafood tasting evening that ran the full gamut of the good, the bad and the okay. By Ingrid Shevlin 

Fish & Wine is a brand new seafood restaurant in The Pearls. The interior space is expansive, the terrace section is expansive. The decor is cool and contemporary. Clean and lean, in fact. Loved the ship’s hull suspended from the ceiling. Frank Chemaly, who was dining with me, joked that it made him feel like Jonah, who was swallowed by a whale to prevent him drowning. A bible parable, sweetie. Clearly in joking mood, he also quipped that the & part of Fish & Wine looked like in “S”, reading Fish Swine. We all laughed.
Fish & Wine is linked to Willoughby & Co, popular seafood restaurants in Hyde Park and Cape Town. For one brief, heady moment I  thought it would be a cut above the other restaurants in The Pearls, distinguishable only by their mediocrity. Apart from Cafe La Plage that is, which offers some interesting flavours – and gold plastic toilets and gilded thrones in the lounge area. So, pretty memorable.
But it was not to be with Fish & Wine. Even though it came recommended. Even though it had rave reviews on its Facebook page.

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