The dramatic moment our chateau briand is flamed in brandy

The dramatic moment our chateau briand is flamed in brandy

Chateau briand: enough steak to feed a rugby team

Chateau briand: enough steak to feed a rugby team

32 Floor, John Ross House, Central Durban
Call 031 368 2275

We promised food writer Frank Chemaly an adventure and pretty much ended up with a disaster. Terrible service and lacklustre food. I think the Roma Revolving should be euthanised. Frank hopes he never has to return, but he does offer (below) his version of the classic Avocado Ritz in the spirit of something good can come of something bad. Here he offers his view of our experience. Below is mine….. 

Was promised an adventure. We were going to dinner on Saturday night. Don’t know where, do know when. “Pick you up at 6.30” read the SMS said. Sounds like fun. And so our chariot arrived and started heading for town. Hmm. Cargo Hold? No. Buds on the Bay – no. Julios on the Bay? Big no. That’s not an adventure. That’s masochism. Royal Natal. No, that was
plan B. The Ace Butchery? We all laugh.


Deconstructed baklava

Deconstructed baklava. Or perhaps reconstructed. Whatever, nothing like the traditional baklava you know and love

54 Adelaide Tambo Drive, Durban North
Call 031 007 0375

Nikos offers hearty, tasty food that is perfect to share. Great place for a celebration, writes Ingrid Shevlin

Nikos is a fun and vibey place to eat. It  was pumping the day we lunched there – and that was four days after its opening. Diners poured in and out in an endless stream and staff rushed around madly like headless chickens. But there was an order to it all and our food came out the kitchen surprisingly quickly. Too quickly in the case of our mains, which arrived while we were still eating our starters
But no matter. The food is so mix-and-match that all the flavours blended together seamlessly. For instance, I topped my chicken souvlaki with dollops of htipiti dip and loved it.
I was lunching with friend Meleney Cunniff, the daughter and the granddaughter. Lovely Lilly may only be six months old, but she is already a seasoned diner, even if she does bring her own food. In this case pureed butternut, carrots, sweet potato and chicken.
Eating out with a baby can be challenging and Nikos is a little too crammed and frenetic to make it a comfortable place to take babies or toddlers and all their paraphernalia. Remember that. But we coped, thanks to our waitress, Bridget, who was outstandingly efficient and patient.
But Nikos is not without its peculiarities – and it’s far from being fine dining.
Serving food in enamel dishes, for instance, is charming. Up to a point. And if you are going to offer tea, get some teapots.


Smoked salman trout on deep fried rosti.

Smoked salman trout on deep fried rosti.

Cattle Baron
Umhlanga Pearls
7 Mc Causland Cres, Umhlanga.
Call 031 561 9011

I fear for the future of chef-owned restaurants. With the the high cost of running a restaurant is it only franchise operations that can survive? And are they serving the cause of fine food? 

There are around 23 Cattle Baron franchise restaurants in South Africa. Most of them in the Cape. Their first in KwaZulu Natal, has just opened in the Pearls in Umhlanga.
How depressing.
Depressing because Umhlanga is becoming wall-to-wall franchise restaurants and it seems there is less and less room for the individually-owned eatery. Probably due to exorbitant rents and running costs. How can a one-man operation compete against the might of the Spur Corporation, Famous Brands, and Taste Holdings, all major players in the restaurant industry.
Depressing because the whole concept of franchises is to keep costs down and profits high and the only way to do this is to compromise on food. It’s strict portion control, pre-coooking and cooking by numbers. Little inspiration here.
Depressing because the last three mediocre meals I ordered recently have been in franchise restaurants.
But Cattle Baron is the one that convinced me. If you eat at a steakhouse, eat steak. That’s common sense. The seafood, chicken and vegetarian options are concessions to those who, unwillingly, find themselves at steakhouses. Like a work colleague’s farewell or a friend’s birthday celebration.


Heirloom tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes

A Black Crim (Crimea) tomato. Steve rtes this the tastiest slicing tomato there is.

A Black Crim (Crimea) tomato. Steve rates this the tastiest slicing tomato there is

By day STEVE HASKINS  is a businessman. After hours he fulfils his passion for growing heirloom tomatoes on an allotment in Assagay. Here he explains his love of  good coffee, food and the appeal of heirloom tomatoes. Once tasted… never forgotten.

I arrived in South Africa from Europe in the mid 70’s after having fled rightwing warmongering America. Ironic to end up in South Africa you say. Well, there is one thing worse than fascist fanatics waging never ending war, and that is a European winter. The allure of the “endless summer” brought me to South Africa in spite of the perils and politics of the time. Having arrived in Johannesburg in June it was like summer compared to what I had been through in Europe. Then, after arriving in Durban in July and going for a dip in the 23C water, I decided I was going to stay and try to survive. Avocados were R1 a dozen! I will try to survive.
One of my early experiences in Durban was to go to a well-known Italian restaurant on West Street called Aldos. I had spent a year in Italy and it was there I first experienced fine dining and true coffee. Being American I had been exposed to what was referred to as “Joe” – percolator coffee served in mugs in an endless cycle of refills. It was black and watery and it was all we knew.
In Italy I first experienced traditional Italian cooking and real coffee made in a simple stainless steel espresso pot. Chalk and cheese. The bars and cafes had pressurised espresso machines, but for home the simple espresso pot was the norm.
So going out to an “authentic” family Italian restaurant in Durban I naturally was looking forward to real Italian coffee, but was  shocked to be served the standard of the time, a Frisco-type coffee substitute. Disappointed, I politely called over the owner, one of Aldo’s son’s and asked him why they didn’t serve proper Italian coffee. His reply was, “we did at first but the South Africans complained and turned up their noses. So we gave them what they wanted.”
So now 40 years later South Africans have changed their tastes and few choose the chicory that was then the prefered norm.
So what does this have to do with heirloom tomatoes you ask? Well, it’s about going back to a food’s origins and discovering authentic flavours.


Frank's prawn risotto

Frank’s prawn risotto starter

A dorado to remember

A dorado to remember

Cafe la Plage (the beach), a new restaurant in The Pearls in Umhlanga,  is making waves.  

Cafe La Plage Restaurant & Bar
Shop D1 Pearl Walk,  Pearls of Umhlanga,
McCausland Crescent,  Umhlanga,
Call 031 561 9999

Cafe la Plage is one restaurant you are unlikely to forget. Ever. For several reasons, some good and some not so good. Firstly the decor. The furniture is baroque-like with a distressed paint finish, the flooring looks like retro lino, but is in fact tiles, long metal beams line the low ceiling over the large bar area, the lighting is purple, and two gilded thrones take pride of place in the lounge area. The overall effect is startling. It’s a look I can only describe it as Housewives of Hollywood meet Housewives of Bollywood.  But it’s not quite as startling as the gold plastic thrones (toilets) in the bathrooms, which are generating serious chat on social media.
The decor looked as if it had been conceptualised by a committee of Kazakhstan designers. On the other hand, reviewers on Trip Advisor described it variously as “well-designed”, “very upmarket” and “elegant” . So, perhaps it’s a matter of taste. Borat would approve, though.
On the positive side was our food, which ranged from pleasant and just a hair’s breath away from being very good to superb. Some tweaking was needed here. Another positive is the efficient service. – and friendly vibe.